Tuesday, May 20, 2008

A rainy night in Zvolen

How do you pass a rainy night in Zvolen, in a space that is roughly 12 square metres with no TV, intermittent internet access and a radio which only seems to pick up Slovak dance music?
Before I reveal the secrets for staying sane during a thunderstorm in a campsite next to a motorway with only a silent Dutch couple for neighbours, I must tell you about Zvolen.
Six months ago I had no idea the town existed. I only discovered it when looking for a stopover between Poland and Hungary.
It is in Central Slovakia, has a population of around 45,000 and, like most towns and cities in central Europe it has a castle and a town square.
And that is about it. Sorry Zvolen. I know that you are surrounded by beautiful skiing countryside, with thermal spas close by and a history that stretches back thousands of years, but as it says in my Alan Rogers campsite bible, your glories probably lie more in your past than your present.
That said, we found a half decent bottle of Valpocelli in the Billa supermarket, and the castle is very fairytale.
The red wine is a clue to how to survive a rainy night in Zvolen, or any other small town.
Take one bottle of red wine, the best you can afford.
Some dark chocolate, again the best you can afford, or in our case the best we could find.
One lap top and a set of travel speakers.
Series one of the West Wing.
Sit back and enjoy, it will be midnight before you know it and episode seven…
But before we settled down to watch the drama of President Jed Bartlet’s presidency unfold, we had a bit of fun.
On Saturday we are going to be in Belgrade. So what? I can here you mutter, how much fun can that be?
More than you can ever imagine, because we are going to be in Belgrade for the final of the Eurovision 2008.
No, this was not part of our grand plan. I promise you, it is coincidence, but what an opportunity. The world’s most camp and cheesy international song contest in what is probably Europe’s most battered and careworn city of recent years.
It is a civil partnership made in Heaven.
We got on the phone to try and book a cheap hotel room for Saturday night so we can enjoy the party without worrying about getting back to our campsite, 12 kms out of the city.
Seven calls, and a few confused Serbs late, we landed lucky: a double room in the Splendid Hotel, next door to the Serbian Parliament and a beauty salon.
We can’t wait.

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